Synth Site: Roland: JX-10: User reviews Add review
Average rating: 4.7 out of 5
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Glen Stegner a professional user from USA writes:
Three main reasons why Juno-106 is more sought-after than the far superior JX-10:

(1) First and foremost, Juno-106 was used by William Orbit for Madonna's Ray of Light album. He mentioned it in almost every interview about the recording of that album, and celeb endorsements like this make a huge difference.

(2) The JX-10 lost some momentum after the SOS article that proclaimed a poor MIDI spec, causing rumors to fly and prices to drop. This is only partly true: the JX-10 cannot receive sysex parameter controls, thus will not support a computer based editor. Those problems were ironed out on the rackmount MKS-70. In all other ways, its MIDI spec is farily robust, especially the features that make it a great controller keyboard.

(3) No hands-on knobs/sliders (sans the PG-800 programmer, that is). This was not such an important issue at the time of the JX-10's release; nowadays it's a very big issue for prospective second-hand buyers (trance, techno, etc.). A JX-10 with a PG-800 combined will sell for slightly more than a Juno-106. Often the PG-800 will sell for as much as the JX-10 itself, or more. Another aspect of the Juno-106 in this vein that makes it more desirable is that the sliders will transmit sysex data, making it possible to control softsynths and other hardware synths.

In a nutshell, if sheer analog 'balls' (in the form of lush pads and complex modulation possibilities) is what you want, the JX-10 will serve you well. It can do sounds the Juno-106 just can't touch. If hands-on slider nonsense is important to you, a JX-10 with PG-800 will still be more powerful than a Juno-106, unless the MIDI sysex stuff is needed. The JX-10 is indeed one of the very best analog synths ever made, and for the money, *THE* best value on the market right now. They are not quite as hard to find as they once were; many can now be found on eBay, average selling point around $250. I agree, they will one day again be highly sought after and prices will eventually go up. (As soon as music styles start changing again, and analog pads are more important than resonance noise and filter sweeps.)

Rating: 5 out of 5 posted Tuesday-Feb-24-2004 at 23:29
a part-time user writes:
Why this isn't one of the most popular analog sunths ever made, I just don't know. But I'll guess:

1. It's big.

2. No real-time monkey business without the pg800.

3. Not as aggressive as earlier analogs.

But the sound, my god...

Rating: 5 out of 5 posted Tuesday-Feb-17-2004 at 00:20
SYNTEX77 a professional user from Italy writes:
The best analog with dco, this machine can make many type of analog sound, first the pads, and have a good midi and keyboard, in a modern studio is a best choice for have a good analog synth at a good price... On italy i have paid many money for this, because is hard to find...

Rating: 5 out of 5 posted Saturday-Jan-31-2004 at 06:42
Dexy a part-time user writes:
The best analogue synth ever. Tons better than Jp8, pro 5, synthex and stuff from oberheim and moog. Big, meaty, beautiful and built to last for ever and a day, Sell the rest of' yer crap and buy thisen! Get the programmer though, just for added class.

Rating: 5 out of 5 posted Sunday-Dec-28-2003 at 13:11
elektrogeek a part-time user writes:
Thanks Glen, that worked great. I appreciate the time you took to be so detailed in your description. The keys in question work fine now, except the last one I ended with, which was working before I started (I only lifted the rubber strip up partially while cleaning). Back to square one! This sucks because it's a key right by one of the two brackets just behind the keyboard where the springs seem to be VERY tricky to take on and off. Argh! I'll find a way though. I might as well clean ALL the contacts.

I'd like to add a couple of things on this operation for others that might want to try this. Firstly, after you remove the frame's screws, you have to unscrew the grounding wire (green) from the pitch bend lever before you are able to open the chassis enough to really do all this. Once you do that, the wire will slide through where it looks like it's still attached to the mechanism.

When reattaching the rubber contact strips I used a small nail to poke the rubber stumps back into their holes. I then used tweezers to help put the springs back on (and to take them off too). I'd imagine needle nosed pliers would work as well. Be careful with the springs as they can JUMP! I thought I lost a couple into the synth but learned my lesson and was able to still find them and retrieve them with the tweezers.

Also, as you take the keys out you will notice a clear plastic strip that lies just beneath the metal frame that the keys hang on. This strip is pulled off as you remove more and more keys. At first I was nervous about it, but it didnt affect the key feel at all now that it's back together and it's not an electronic part so I proceeded. It's actually what makes the keys hard to remove in the first place. Hmmm. I hope I haven't messed something up.

I'm glad I tried this, I've never opened a synth before. My thanks to Glen. Sorry in advance to folks that think this should have been in the gastation. And like Glen said, I hold no responsiblity for damaged items. It was tedious, fun and challenging. Cheers.

Rating: 4 out of 5 posted Wednesday-Nov-26-2003 at 16:30
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